How to Prep and Sew Pointe Shoes

Overview: 

Pointe shoes are shoes which are worn by ballet dancers when performing Pointe work. Pointe work is a classical ballet performance that requires a ballet dancer to support all their body weight on the tips of fully stretched feet wh ile wearing pointe footwear. Pointe shoes are specially designed and mechanically reinforced to equally distribute the weight of the ballet dancer throughout the entire foot ( Colucci & Klein , 2008). This is aimed at reliev ing the stress on the dancer’s toes. A pointe shoe has a stiff midsole referred to as the shank , which presses tightly along the foot’s bottom. Shanks have varying degrees of flexibility and can either run the entire length of the shoe o r a part of it. A special fabric called the vamp extends from the toe box to the top of the foot. The vamp supports the foot by holding it against the shank. The purpose of the toe box is to firmly encase the toes so as to allow the dancer to stand on an oval-shaped platform at the tip. This how-to guide is focussed on how to prepare and sew pointe shoes. 

Intended audience: 

The target audience of this how-to includes ballet dancers, ballet shoemakers , ballet teachers, and other ballet enthusiasts.

Purpose: 

This how-to guideline is based on successful structures used by other open source projects with diverse author groups. When these verified guidelines are followed , the process of effective work will be achieved .

Prerequisites: 

The target audience for this how-to prepare pointe shoes should have basic cutting, measuring and sewing skills. Most users can perform this how-to because very basic skills are needed.

Steps: 

Sewing on Elastic. 

Measure the elastic. It should be of adequate length to attach the back of the heel, run over the ankle, and finally reattach at the back of the heel on the other side.

Position ing the elastic. The elastic’s ends ought to attach one finger’s width away from the seam of the back heal on both sides. You can position the elastic on the outside or inside of the shoe. It is advisable to sew the elastic on the outside to avoid skin irritation. If you position the elastic on the inside, it should go all the way down the shoe. If the elastic is positioned on the outside, position it low close to where the floor and heel meet.

Pin and test your elastic. After positioning the elastic , secure it in place using a pin, then slip your foot into the shoe to test if it fits as desired. Take caution to avoid poking yourself. Note that the elastic should be firm but comfortable enough to allow blood circulation.

T he ends of the elastic are then sewed onto the shoe using a strong thread or dental floss. Begin stitching near the top of the shoe, just under the drawstring, then proceed stitching along both sides of the elastic ends to form a box-like figure . Take caution not to sew over the drawstring and also ensure that you stitch through the canvas lining so that the stitches won’t show on the outer silk layer.

Repeat the same process on the other shoe and ensure that the shoes are even.

Sewing on ribbons. 

Cut your pointe shoe ribbon into two equal parts measuring about 114 centimeters (45 inches) each.

Carefully run a flame along the cut edges of the ribbon to prevent fraying. You can use a lighter or candle.

Mark the area on the shoes where you will attach the ribbons. To do this, put on your shoes and mark the highest point of your arch on both sides of the shoe’s inside. Another way to do this is by folding the heel inwards towards the toes, then using a pencil or marker pen, mark the points where each side of the heel contacts the drawstring on the shoe’s inside.

Positioning the ribbons. Take on the end of the ribbon and fold it approximately one inch, the n place it at one of the previously made marks. Ensure that it is positioned the entire length of the shoe. Do the same with the second ribbon on the other side of the shoe . Note that the ribbons should attach on the inside of the shoe.

Pin your ribbons and test to gauge their location. The ribbons should lie flat against your instep. In case they feel tight or do not lie even, adjust them.

Starting near the top of the shoe, sew the ends of the ribbons onto the shoe using dental floss or a strong thread, in the same manner you sewed the elastic. Proceed sewing along both sides of the ribbon ends to make a box-like figure. Sew only through the canvas film and take caution not to sew through the drawstring.

Repeat the same process to sew the ribbon on the other shoe.

Tying the ribbons. 

Wrap the ribbons around your ankle. Wear your pointe shoe positioning your foot level on the ground surface. Wrap the inside ribbon over the top of your foot and go round the back of your ankle. Repeat the same steps but in the opposite direction with the ribbon positioned on the outside. Make sure to position both ribbons precisely above the ankle bone.

Tie the ribbon ends to make a small knot on the inside of your ankle. Make sure the ribbons are firm to secure the shoes in place and that they are comfortable. Do not tie the ribbons above your Achilles tendon on your ankle’s back to prevent discomfort.

Trimming the ribbons. For the first time, you tie your ribbons, trim their ends at a distance of approximately 2 inches from the knot. Then run a lighter flame over the ends to ensure they do not fray . F inally , tuck the ends under to obscure them. In case the ribbon ends make an unpleasant protuberance , trim them a bit more.

Breaking in your shoes. 

Consult your instructor for guidelines on how to break in your pointe shoes. Depending on your feet type, your instructor will recommend on the best way of breaking in your shoes . This is especially if you are a beginne r and is recommended before taking the steps below.

Bend the shank. New shoes come with very rigid shanks . Therefore, you will be required to bend them to ensure that the shoes mold well to your feet. Begin by finding the part of the shank that touches your foot’s breakpoint ( the region where your arch and heel meet). Then proceed to bend the shank back and forth laterally on the breakpoint till the desired degree of flexibility is achieved .

Soften the toe box. This is the rigid part of your point e shoe that clasps your toes. Step on the box to soften it or blot the region with rubbing alcohol and water, then knead it.

If desired, use a scraper or rougher to scratch the soles of your shoes t o gain more traction. For a tougher grip and tracking , use scissors to make even deeper cuts.

Bang the pleats on a hard surface to quieten your pointe shoes. P leats refer to the folds of fabric on the shoe’s bottom, close to the toe. Note that this will make your shoes wear out quickly.

Darn the tips of the shoes or remove the satin from the tips to achieve a better grip. You can use scissors to scrap the satin . To darn your shoes , sew stitches around the pointe shoe platform using a thread and needle. Note that this process weak ens the shoes making them break sooner.

Remove the heel nail to gain more flexibility. This can be do ne by us e of fingers or pliers to pull the nails out.

Perform some pointe/ballet exercises to conclude the process of breaking in your shoes such as; grand plies, demi-point walking, and demi-pointe to pointe rolling. Consult your ballet instructor when doing this.

Strengthen your pointe shoes by applying shellac or professional fast-drying glue to the inside of the toe box or around the shank. Again consult your instructor and ensure you do not wrinkle the fabric to avoid getting blisters.

Extend the learning: 

This how-to technique can be applied by almost all ballet dancers to customize their pointe shoes depending on their feet types. They will gain more comfort, speed, and achieve relatively quit dances.

Summary: 

The entire process involves sewing your elastic, sewing and tying your ribbons, and lastly breaking in your pointe shoes.

Additional tips: 

Follow the instructions from your instructor even if they are different from the steps in this article.

The shoes can be uncomfortable especially for a beginner, but in time they will feel better.

Match the color of your shoes and ribbons to that of your leg line.

You can cross two pieces of elastic for more support . 

References 

Colucci, L. A., & Klein, D. E. (2008). Development of an innovative pointe shoe.  Ergonomics in Design ,  16 (3), 6-12.

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